Let’s
start
at
the
top.
Pop
the
cowling.
Depending
on
your
storage
situation,
you
never
know
what’s
underneath—check
for
nests
made
by
critters
that
crawled
in
for
a
winter
home.
Make
sure
the
wiring,
valves,
and
vents
haven’t
been
compromised.
Due
to
the
volatility
of
modern
gasoline,
fuel
begins
to
break
down
after
30
days.
So
if
you
didn’t
add
a
stabilizer
in
autumn,
you
may
need
your
injectors
or
carburetor
rebuilt.
It’s
best
to
store
your
boat
with
a
full
fuel
tank
to
keep
condensation
to
a
minimum.
But
if
you
forgot,
fill
the
tank
to
the
brim
now
to
dilute
any
moisture
before
running
the
engine
for
any
length
of
time.
Fill
the
tank
and
add
a
fuel
conditioner.
Be
prepared
for
multiple
water
separator
changes
until
you’ve
burned
that
tank.
Next,
start
the
engine
on
“earmuffs,”
or
take
a
quick
ride.
Turning
over
the
engine
and
running
it
for
a
few
minutes
should
burn
off
any
remaining
lubricant
and
protectant
you
squirted
into
the
cylinders
to
prevent
rust.
Your
plugs
should
be
changed
after
this,
as
they
will
be
fouled.
While
your
engine
is
running,
check
for
a
steady
stream
from
the
water
pump.
You
might
have
flow
interrupted
from
debris
clogging
the
outlet
or
from
an
impeller
whose
blades
have
taken
a
set
during
storage.
Clean
the
hole
with
a
paper
clip
to
unclog
any
detritus,
and
replace
the
impeller
if
necessary.
Elsewhere,
if
you
didn’t
do
it
already,
grease
the
pivot
and
steering
joints
to
provide
lubrication
for
free
movement
of
the
tilt
and
trim
and
steering.
You
should
replace
the
lube
in
the
lower
unit,
too,
if
you
didn’t
do
it
last
fall.
Check
the
sacrificial
anodes
and
check
the
skeg.
And,
finally,
pull
off
the
prop
and
grease
the
propshaft
and
check
the
hub.
Another
consideration:
With
some
EFI
engines,
the
internal
computer
monitor
can
slowly
drain
your
battery—the
computer
draws
juice
even
if
the
engine
isn’t
in
use.
If
you
forgot
to
disconnect
it
last
fall,
you’ll
need
to
charge
your
starter
battery.
