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Join
Martin
Equipment
Oct
28/09
6:30pm
Combine
Clinic!
17104-118
Ave
West
Edmonton |
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our
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SKID
STEER
OFFER! |
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2009 Stihl MS
170
Chain
Saw
Looking
for
a
compact,
occasional
use
chain
saw?
Homeowners,
look
no
further.
Complete
with
the
same
design
features
the
professionals
depend
on,
the
MS
170
is
lightweight
with
just
the
right
amount
of
power,
perfect
for
residential
cutting
and
trimming
of
small
trees,
firewood
or
storm
clean
up.
ON
SPECIAL
ONLY
$269.95
Complete
with
Wood
Pro
Kit!
FREE
CARRYING
CASE,
HAT,
CHAIN
AND
OPERATION/MAINTENCE
DVD!
Demo
Today
at
Martin
Equipment!
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| Windbreaks
For
Your
Property! |
Windbreaks
offer
beauty,
habitat,
and
energy
savings
There’s
something
about
a
row
of
trees
beside
a
homestead
that
says
“comfort.”
It’s
more
than
just
some
primal
sense
of
security
and
shelter—studies
show
that
windbreaks
can
cut
energy
costs
20
to
40%
by
providing
shade
in
the
summer
and
protection
from
the
wind
in
the
winter.
Buffers
of
trees
and
shrubs
offer
privacy,
draw
birds
and
other
wildlife,
and
help
filter
out
noise,
dust,
and
odors.
A
well-designed
windbreak
can
serve
as
a
living
snow
fence,
piling
blowing
snow
in
drifts
before
it
reaches
houses,
driveways,
and
roads.
A
working
windbreak
is
more
than
just
a
row
of
trees.
There’s
a
science
to
selecting
the
right
trees
and
designing
a
windbreak
to
do
a
specific
job.
There’s
also
an
art
to
making
a
windbreak
beautiful
as
well
as
functional.
The
first
step
is
considering
what
you
want
to
accomplish
with
your
windbreak,
says
Rich
Straight,
lead
agroforester
at
the
U.S.
Department
of
Agriculture’s
National
Agroforestry
Center
in
Lincoln,
Neb.,
which
offers
online
tools
at
www.unl.edu/nac/windbreaks.html.
Simply
screening
a
homesite
from
the
road
or
cutting
wind
speed
in
a
pasture
may
just
require
a
simple
row
or
two.
Blocking
howling
winter
winds
or
snow
on
the
Great
Plains
may
take
three
rows
or
more
of
densely
planted
trees
placed
farther
from
the
house.
Snow
time
Of
course,
a
windbreak
should
run
perpendicular
to
the
direction
of
the
wind
you’re
trying
to
block.
Ideally,
it
will
also
have
a
leg
that
runs
at
a
right
angle
to
the
main
break,
too.
It
should
be
at
least
10
times
as
long
as
the
trees’
height
will
be
when
they’re
20
years
old,
he
says.
That
will
reduce
performance
problems
caused
by
turbulence
whipping
around
the
ends
of
the
row.
Windbreaks
are
all
about
turbulence.
That’s
why
they
don’t
catch
much
snow
on
their
windward
sides.
Instead,
by
creating
turbulence
and
slowing
down
the
wind
that
passes
over
and
through
the
trees,
windbreaks
reduce
the
wind’s
capacity
to
carry
heavy
loads
of
snow,
Straight
explains.
The
slower
breeze
drops
most
of
its
snow
in
drifts
on
the
downwind
side,
in
a
zone
two
to
five
times
the
tallest
trees’
height.
That
leads
to
the
most
common
problem
with
windbreaks
in
snow
country
-
the
trees
are
often
planted
too
close
to
a
house,
road,
or
driveway
when
they
should
be
planted
150
to
200
feet
away.
That
means
they
end
up
dumping
snow
right
on
the
area
they’re
supposed
to
protect.
Fortunately,
notes
Jim
Brandle,
shelterbelt
ecologist
at
the
University
of
Nebraska,
landowners
who
already
have
a
windbreak
planted
too
close
to
their
house
can
add
a
snow
trap
of
trees
or
tall
shrubs
100
feet
or
so
upwind
to
protect
their
windbreak
from
at
least
some
of
the
snow
blowing
its
way.
Choose
carefully
The
next
big
step
is
choosing
trees
and
shrubs
that
will
grow
well
in
the
soil
and
conditions
on
your
property,
says
Straight.
“Even
if
you
do
all
the
rest
of
it
right
but
you
don’t
pick
trees
adapted
to
your
site,
you’re
toast,”
he
notes.
Like
all
the
steps
in
planning
a
windbreak,
it
really
helps
to
get
advice
from
your
local
soil
and
water
conservation
district,
USDA
Natural
Resource
Conservation
Service,
or
state
forestry
agency.
They
know
the
ins
and
outs
of
local
vegetation,
and
may
even
be
able
to
provide
a
great
selection
of
reliable
seedlings
for
a
fraction
of
the
cost
of
buying
landscaping-size
trees
from
a
nursery.
Once
you’ve
got
a
list
of
trees
that
can
thrive
in
your
windbreak,
choose
several
of
the
species,
suggests
Brandle.
“There
should
be
a
minimum
of
three
species,”
he
says,
“Five
is
better,
and
six
to
seven
is
ideal.”
Good
hedge
Species
diversity
hedges
your
bets
against
losing
trees
to
disease
or
insects,
Brandle
explains.
It
also
fine-tunes
windbreak
performance,
attracts
or
repels
certain
wildlife
species,
and
offers
aesthetic
choices.
At
the
National
Agroforestry
Center,
Straight
agrees.
To
make
a
windbreak
that’s
beautiful
as
well
as
functional,
think
beyond
the
traditional
straight
rows
and
deep
greens.
“Windbreaks
don’t
have
to
be
straight
rows,”
he
points
out.
“You
can
put
in
curves.
Facing
the
world,
you
might
want
uniform
stands
of
pine
or
spruce.
The
house
side
is
where
I’m
going
to
get
creative
with
color
and
texture,
maybe
add
some
fruits
to
attract
songbirds.
Just
be
sure
that
trees
planted
adjacent
to
each
other
are
similar
in
size
and
form
so
one
species
doesn’t
crowd
out
the
others.”
Species
diversity
can
also
balance
the
need
for
speed
with
the
plan
for
longevity.
In
Lincoln,
Neb.,
natural
resource
district
forester
Rich
Lodes
points
out
that
a
row
of
fast-growing
poplars
could
provide
a
speedy
start
to
a
windbreak.
By
the
time
the
short-lived
poplars
die
off,
slow-growing
spruce
planted
at
the
same
time
will
be
reaching
toward
the
skies.
Lodes
notes
that
planting
vigorous,
fast-growing
species
as
seedlings
is
a
much
more
reliable
way
to
speed
a
windbreak’s
progress
than
investing
in
costly
larger
trees.
A
tree
that
is
six
feet
tall
and
is
dug
out
of
the
ground
has
a
relatively
small
root
mass
in
proportion
to
its
height,”
he
explains,
“so
it’s
got
to
expend
its
energy
on
rebuilding
its
root
system
instead
of
putting
it
into
top
growth.”
In
fact,
seedling
Scotch
pines
can
grow
twice
as
fast
as
the
same
species
planted
as
six-footers,
Lodes
says.
Within
five
years,
the
seedling
trees
can
overtop
the
ones
that
started
out
taller.
Another
key
element
in
helping
windbreak
plantings
off
to
a
strong
start
is
good
site
preparation,
says
Straight.
Depending
on
soils,
local
conditions,
and
what
grew
there
before,
that
could
range
from
a
light
disking
to
a
thorough
rototilling,
or
even
just
a
broad-spectrum
herbicide
followed
by
mulch
and
a
good,
cold
winter
to
mellow
the
soil.
“Site
prep
removes
competing
vegetation
and
loosens
up
the
soil
so
when
you
plant
your
seedlings,
the
soil
will
settle
around
the
seedling
and
give
good
root-to-soil
contact,”
Straight
says.
But
you’re
not
done
yet,
he
notes—young
windbreaks
need
weed
control
for
a
couple
of
years
to
gain
a
foothold.
Flexibility
With
a
little
legwork
up
front,
a
well-designed
windbreak
will
deliver
years
of
protection
and
beauty.
And
it
can
be
tailored
to
your
site
and
tastes.
“Somewhere
in
that
windbreak,
you
need
a
couple
of
rows
that
are
complete,”
says
Brandle.
“Outside
of
that
core,
you
have
a
lot
of
flexibility.”
.
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